Arrival, and a Saturday in Paris

Ben and Kathy standing on a cobblestone quayside at night with Notre-Dame cathedral illuminated across the Seine

We landed Friday morning, made it to the hotel, and crashed for a few hours — the kind of jet-lag siesta where you set an alarm and still sleep through it. By evening we’d patched ourselves together enough for dinner with the Kashtis, Celia, and Jeff at the restaurant Sam had picked. He’d gotten the suggestion from Stephane, a friend of Amatsia’s, and it lived up to it. We were too foggy to remember most of what we ate, but the crème brûlée registered, and the wine helped.

Saturday started slowly and warmed up. Celia, Jeff, Kathy, and I made it over to the 16th to see Martine — 97 now, sharp as ever, and pleased about the croissants we brought. She made tea and coffee and we worked through old stories the way you do when you haven’t seen someone in too long. Back at Celia’s AirBnB by early afternoon, we settled in for the rest of the day around a table of cheeses, pâtés, and a couple of baguettes — the kind of long-grazing afternoon that’s the right shape for a first proper day in Paris.

Group selfie with five people including an elderly woman in the center, at an apartment in the 16th arrondissement
Martine — about to turn 97 and very much in charge.

Dinner was at Bistro Régent Bastille, informal, good food and beer, the kind of place that’s perfect for a crew. Ella and William had come up from Aix, so we were fourteen, and we got there early enough to have a room mostly to ourselves before it filled in. Afterward we walked along the canal Saint-Martin and down toward the Seine before peeling off and Ubering back to the hotel.

Large group seated around a long table at a Parisian restaurant, wine bottles displayed on the wall behind them
The Bastille dinner — fourteen of us with the room mostly ours.
Two people smiling at the camera at a restaurant table, others in the background
Ella and William had come up from Aix — the full crew, more or less.
Ben and Kathy standing on a cobblestone quayside at night with Notre-Dame cathedral illuminated across the Seine
The Seine after dinner — Notre-Dame almost free of scaffolding.

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Lisbon

May 2026 — home base for the rest of the year.

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