

Day three was more canal riding, with the occasional village steeple and lock along the way. A small detour took us into Vianne, a medieval village with nearly all of its walls intact. We stopped for pastries in the central square, of course. Ben had a religieuse — an éclair-like pastry he hadn’t seen in decades. A religious experience, for sure.
Another brief detour led us to the church in Sérignac-sur-Garonne with its spiral steeple, and then we were back on the canal toward Agen. There we found our first piece of large-scale French engineering: the Pont-Canal d’Agen, an aqueduct that carries the canal across the Garonne. Amazing to see — and to ride across.
We checked into our hotel in the center of town and then Ben went out to scout dinner options. We ate at Le Margoton, a classic French restaurant very close by. The menu included Tournedos Rossini, a tuna with tonka bean butter sauce, and the star of the evening: a proper Grand Marnier soufflé. It was also one of the evenings of the annual Fête de la Musique, though things were barely getting started by the time we called it a night.
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