Ben’s cousin Amatsia and his youngest daughter, Martha, came down from Oxford and London, respectively, for a long weekend with us. We walked and ate our way across Lisbon, seeing the highlights and some of the lesser-known places in the area.
We started off in Belém, with breakfast at Pasteis de Belém. Then we walked around to the Monument to Discovery. After that we went up to the grocery store to stock the larder – Martha had requested the opportunity to get some local snacks.
We then went down to Baixa and took in the usual sights: Rua Augusta, Elevador de Santa Justa, Chiado, and some of Alfama.
In the evening we had an early dinner at our favorite little Antiga Wine Bar. As usual, it was delicious. Afterward we stumbled upon a little Fado place that would let us come in for a glass of port and listen without committing to a whole evening. The singers were really good: a contralto along with the usual classical and Portuguese guitarists. For one number the headwaiter jumped in for a duet. Later an operatic soprano sang for us.
After that we climbed to the top of the hill and then back down to the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, where we took in the wonderful evening views. While looking at the historical tiles on the church wall, a former tuk-tuk guide educated us about the scene depicted as well as telling us a lot about Lisbon. All this time we were bing serenaded by a gentleman playing what Ben calls a “tile-o-phone”: tuned tiles suspended in a grid and played with mallets; very creative!
The next day we took an Uber to the top of Alfama again to find a pastry shop the guide had recommended the previous evening. Martha sampled the port-wine croissant and was quite pleased with it. Then we headed over toward Santa Clara, where there’s a street market. On the way we stopped into one of Ben & Kathy’s favorite places, the Monastery of São Vicente de Fora. Even this second time it managed to impress us. We had a plan to get lunch at Taberna Sal Grosso Alfama, one of the restaurants recommended by a Lisbon-loving friend of Martha’s, but we had to wait for the crowd to clear. It was worth it, though. All the dishes were good, but especially the aubergine (eggplant) with smoked yogurt and walnuts.
For dinner we ate at home with prosciutto al melone, green salad, and bread and cheese.
Sunday we had brunch at our little Social Café, which was great, as usual. Then a stiff walk over the top of the hill, taking the hard road to get to LX Market, the trendy place with a Sunday crafts market as well as the usual shops and restaurants. On the way we found the super-posh (but not crazy expensive) Pestana Palace Hotel. From LX Market we took the tram to the Time-Out Market, and walked up the hill to Chiado, Bairro Alto, and Principe Real, ending up at Faz Frio, another favorite recommended by Martha’s friend, for a very early dinner. Again wonderful food in a great atmosphere.
After dinner we walked all the way back to Praça do Comércio, passing by Praça Marquês de Pombal, then walking the entire length of Avenida da Liberdade, with it’s designer shops, through Restauradores, and down Rua Augusta to the river side. Uber home from there and off to bed.
Monday was beach day. We headed off to Cascais by train. Martha and Kathy hit up the beach, while Amatsia and Ben wandered the town and had a beer at a little park café. We reunited and stopped in for the touristy version of the Portuguese specialty, Pastéis de Bacalhau and a sip of white Port wine. A quick peek at the harbor, then the train back home for a rest before dinner. All this touring and eating is tiring!
Dinner was at the MAAT restaurant, again. And again it did not disappoint. Ben had the pork cheeks on pear and lemon risotto, while Kathy had steak, Martha had salmon Wellington, and Amatsia had a salad with aubergines. The food and service are great, and the views over the river as the evening progresses are to die for.
Tuesday morning we said goodbye to Amatsia and Martha, and Kathy and Ben began looking ahead to our trip back to Boston to see family, catch up with friends, and do the rounds to assorted doctor appointmens.
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