Our host Stéphane at the Château des Jacobins arrived very early so we could enjoy breakfast before departing at a civilized hour. Incredibly gracious. Ben also took a moment to photograph our room, which was a showpiece.
We headed off along the canal again, stopping to admire the twin cooling towers of the Golfech nuclear plant. They were shut down shortly afterward when the river water grew too warm to cool the reactors adequately.
After a quick photo of the spiral-steepled church in Donzac we rode through the countryside until we rejoined the river at the foot of the hill topped by little Auvillar. We stumbled into the Sunday market and enjoyed local bread and cheese while a trio played hot jazz in the square. The views of the Garonne from above were wonderful.
The last 20 km brought us to Moissac. Our hotel wasn’t ready since we arrived early, so Kathy and Ben had a small picnic by the Garonne while a flea market was setting up nearby. Ben went hunting for cold drinks and perhaps a square of chocolate, but even the convenience stores were inconveniently closed. After lunch we visited the Abbaye Saint-Pierre de Moissac, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the largest Romanesque churches in the world.
At check-in we were greeted by the owners of L’Arche de Moissac, Christophe and Jean-Claude, who live on the top floor. The house is beautifully restored and full of artwork — Jean-Claude runs an art gallery — so it was a pleasure to stay.
We made good use of the wonderfully cool swimming pool, then dried off on chaises longues in the oven that was southern France that afternoon. An elderly resident cat made a social call and was an absolute sweetheart.
Dinner was at a little bistro by the abbey, where a band played classic rock standards with remarkable vigor considering the heat.
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