We’re based at the border between Alcântara and Belém. It’s a really old building, parts of it dating from before the earthquake of 1755, but the interior is all new, mostly Ikea. We’re a five-minute walk to the Museum of Art, Architecture, and Technology (MAAT) and the riverside, and maybe twenty to Torre de Belém. The landlord’s family, a doctor, his wife, their three kids, live in the building and were immediately generous with their time.
The apartment has plenty of space: a large living room, a kitchen with plenty of cabinet space and elbow room for cooking, and a narrow balcony with a view of the river that earns its keep at dusk. Two bedrooms and two baths.


The neighborhood is pretty quiet despite trams and buses in the street below. Azulejos cover the facade, and there are Santini’s ice cream and both the original Pastéis de Belém and the competing Manteigaria just a few minutes away.


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